Kenya and Tanzania are home to the seemingly endless plains of the Masai Mara and Serengeti National Parks, where one of the worlds greatest natural spectacles, the annual migration of some two million wildebeest followed by their predators can be observed. Between them they hold some of the largest concentrations of lion, cheetah and leopard in Africa.
Masai Mara
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Overland
Trips passing through the Masai Mara
Budget
Overland Trips passing through the Masai Mara
The Masai Mara is one of
the best known and most popular reserves in the whole of Africa. At times and in
certain places it can get a little overrun with tourist minibuses, but there is
something so special about it that it tempts you back time and again.
Seasoned safari
travellers, travel writers, documentary makers and researchers often admit that
the Masai Mara is one of their favourite places. So why is that? Perhaps it is
because of the 'big skies', the open savannahs, the romance of films like 'Out
of Africa' and certainly because of the annual wildebeest migration, the density
of game, the variety of birdlife and the chance of a hot air balloon
ride.
Also because of the tall
red-robed Masai people whose lifestyle is completely at odds with western
practices, and from whom one learns to question certain western
values.
A combination of all
these things plus something to do with the spirit of the place - which is hard
to put into words - is what attracts people to the Mara over and over.
The Masai Mara lies in
the Great Rift Valley, which is a fault line some 3,500 miles (5,600km) long,
from Ethiopia's Red Sea through Kenya, Tanzania, Malawi and into Mozambique.
Here the valley is wide and a towering escarpment can be seen in the hazy
distance. The animals are also at liberty to move outside the park into huge
areas known as 'dispersal areas'. There can be as much wildlife roaming outside
the park as inside. Many Masai villages are located in the 'dispersal areas' and
they have, over centuries, developed a synergetic relationship with the
wildlife.
There are four main types
of topography in the Mara: Ngama Hills to the east with sandy soil and leafy
bushes liked by black rhino; Oloololo Escarpment forming the western boundary
and rising to a magnificent plateau; Mara Triangle bordering the Mara River with
lush grassland and acacia woodlands supporting masses of game especially
migrating wildebeest; Central Plains forming the largest part of the reserve,
with scattered bushes and boulders on rolling grasslands favoured by the plains
game.
In a short stay during
the wildebeest migration you could see thousands of animals, at other times
there are still hundreds. The plains are full of wildebeest, zebra, impala,
topi, giraffe, Thomson's gazelle. Also regularly seen are leopards, lions,
hyenas, cheetah, jackal and bat-eared foxes. Black rhino are a little shy and
hard to spot but are often seen at a distance.
Hippos are abundant in the Mara River as are very large Nile crocodiles,
who lay in wait for a meal as the wildebeest cross on their annual quest to find
new pastures.
Every July (or sometimes
August), the wildebeest travel over 600 miles (960km) from Tanzania's Serengeti
plains, northwards to the Masai Mara and the Mara River is the final obstacle.
In October or November, once they have feasted and the grass has all but gone,
they turn around and go back the other way.
The Mara birds come in every size and colour including common but
beautiful ones like the lilac breasted roller and plenty of large species like
eagles, vultures and storks. There are 53 different birds of
prey.
Serengeti
Overland Trips passing through the SerengetiBudget Overland Trips passing through the Serengeti
Full details on Serengeti Safaris
A million wildebeest...
each one driven by the same ancient rhythm, fulfilling its instinctive role in
the inescapable cycle of life: a frenzied three-week bout of territorial
conquests and mating; survival of the fittest as 40km (25 mile) long columns
plunge through crocodile-infested waters on the annual exodus north;
replenishing the species in a brief population explosion that produces more than
8,000 calves daily before the 1,000 km (600 mile) pilgrimage begins
again.
Tanzania's oldest and
most popular national park, also a world heritage site and recently proclaimed a
7th world wide wonder, the Serengeti is famed for its annual migration, when
some six million hooves pound the open plains, as more than 200,000 zebra and
300,000 Thomson's gazelle join the wildebeests trek for fresh grazing. Yet even
when the migration is quiet, the Serengeti offers arguably the most
scintillating game-viewing in Africa: great herds of buffalo, smaller groups of
elephant and giraffe, and thousands upon thousands of eland, topi, kongoni,
impala and Grants gazelle.
The spectacle of predator
versus prey dominates Tanzanias greatest park. Golden-maned lion prides feast on
the abundance of plain grazers. Solitary leopards haunt the acacia trees lining
the Seronera River, while a high density of cheetahs prowls the southeastern
plains. Almost uniquely, all three African jackal species occur here, alongside
the spotted hyena and a host of more elusive small predators, ranging from the
insectivorous aardwolf to the beautiful serval cat.
But there is more to Serengeti than large mammals. Gaudy agama lizards
and rock hyraxes scuffle around the surfaces of the parks isolated granite
koppies. A full 100 varieties of dung beetle have been recorded, as have
500-plus bird species, ranging from the outsized ostrich and bizarre secretary
bird of the open grassland, to the black eagles that soar effortlessly above the
Lobo Hills.
As enduring as the game-viewing is
the liberating sense of space that characterises the Serengeti Plains,
stretching across sunburnt savannah to a shimmering golden horizon at the end of
the earth. Yet, after the rains, this golden expanse of grass is transformed
into an endless green carpet flecked with wildflowers. And there are also wooded
hills and towering termite mounds, rivers lined with fig trees and acacia
woodland stained orange by dust.
Popular the Serengeti might be, but it remains so vast that you may be the only human audience when a pride of lions masterminds a siege, focussed unswervingly on its next meal.
We drive from Arusha via Lake Manyara, Tarangire and
Ngorongoro Crater.
Best time to go to follow the wildebeest migration is
December to July. Best time for to see predators is June to October.
The route and timing of the wildebeest migration is unpredictable. Allow at least three days to be assured of seeing them on your visit - longer if you want to see the main predators as well.